Measuring the softness of Merino Wool yarn.

19.5 micron superwash US raised and processed Merino Wool.

There are a lot of natural protein fibers - you can even use your longer haired dog's coat to produce a soft, silky fiber that can be added to another fiber, like wool, or spun on its own. You will need a lot of that fiber though, to get any significant amount of yarn.😄

Wool can be defined as a natural fiber taken from Sheep AND other mammals. Popular fibers like Cashmere or Mohair from goats, Angora from rabbits, and Camel fiber also fall under the wool heading. Most of a wool fiber is made up of protein (and a little fat).

For this article, we are focusing our discussion on the most common wool - the wool from Sheep. There are many breeds of sheep. And technically, each grows fleece that can be processed and spun into fiber. Some of the fiber from certain sheep is so coarse, it would be terribly uncomfortable to wear next to your skin. On the other hand, there is wool fiber so soft and snuggly, we relish its warmth and coziness - this is Merino wool. 

Here's a great article on the top 18 breeds of sheep, you may be tempted to try one or two of these in addition to that old stand-by, Merino (which is also on the list!) 

Merino wool is a popular and beloved fiber for next to skin softness, especially here in the United States. A lot of indie-dyers and larger yarn companies describe a skein of Merino wool or a Merino wool blend with the phrase, "soft and squishy." To understand Merino wool, take a peak at this short video from Lion Brand's Yarn University.

19.5 micron single-ply superwash merino wool.

Check out some protein-based yarns at your local yarn shop, or online, and be sure to read each description. You may see the yardage, weight in grams, the number of plies, the content of the fiber (merino plus nylon, or merino plus another fiber), recommendations for the items the yarn is best suited to create (rugs, weaving, crochet, knit?), and perhaps a micron count.

Wait - what is that last one? A MICRON count? What's that?

A Micron count is the measurement term used to describe the diameter, or thickness, of the fiber used to make up yarn. THE LOWER the micron count, the thinner the fiber, and the softer the fiber. Again...THE LOWER the number, the softer the yarn. To give you some idea of measurement - a human hair is 50-100 microns thick. And some human hair feels remarkably soft! To put it simply - all yarn accurately labeled Merino wool is going to be on the soft side per micron count. 

These are the microns you may see listed on your yarn label according to Series of Wool:

<17.5 ultrafine (the softest) - best for lightweight & delicate, silky soft, finely knit items like t-shirts or undergarments.

17.6 - 18.5 superfine - best for fine, all season garments such as expensive formal suits and finely knit items.

18.5 - 19.5 fine/extra fine - perfect for finely woven, all season garments like sweaters, shawls, dresses, pants, etc.

19.6 - 20.5 fine medium - best for medium to heavy gauge knitwear - maintains a soft feel with the addition of strength and longevity - sweaters, socks, hats, scarves, mittens, gloves and other garments.

20.6 - 22.5 medium - A variety of woven apparel such as thicker sweaters, socks, and blankets (throws, afghans).

>22.6 - strong - used for rugs, upholstery, insulation, and carpet.

The softer (lower micron count) the less likely an individual is to have an allergic skin reaction while wearing the garment. So, while there are varying grades of Merino wool yarn, most less than 30 microns are considered comfortable enough to be worn next to the skin, although less than 24-25 microns seems to be the preferred. Your micron choice really depends on the garment or project you are looking to create.

20.5 micron NONSUPERWASH Merino wool

But can you definitively judge the softness of the yarn by micron count alone? What if there are other variables involved? 

While researching this article, I found that many writers and experts believe the micron count of a fiber should be used only as a guideline because of the presence of other variables. For instance,

• Is the yarn superwash? Superwash is a chemical process that strips the fiber of its outer layers, allowing it to be machine washed without felting. Superwash wool yarn is also softer and smoother.
• How was the fiber spun and Who did the spinning? Most commercial yarn is spun with machinery and therefore has a consistent thickness. But for the individual or "indie" spinner, it generally depends on experience and preference. The Spinner may start with a fleece labeled with a lower, say 19 or 20 micron count, yet depending on their technique, spin a more coarse fiber that "feels" closer to a 22 micron count. 
• In what country were the sheep raised & Where was the fleece processed and spun? About 80% of Merino fiber comes from Australia, with the remainder mostly from New Zealand, China, and the United States. Also, the fiber may be spun at another facility in another country where the practices used to process the fiber can have an affect on the softness of the yarn.
• How many plies are present in the yarn strand? A single ply yarn may feel softer than a multi-ply yarn, or vice-versa, depending how many plies and how the yarn is spun.

WHAT?😕 With so many variables, why would you take a yarn's micron count into consideration?

When you cannot touch, squish, or cuddle the yarn with your own two hands! If you are considering a yarn purchase from a printed catalog, or online store, knowing the micron count can be a handy guide as to the potential softness of the yarn. Don't be shy about sending a note to the shop owner asking for the micron count of a yarn base you are considering. The micron count can be easily obtained but may take a few days if the owner has to ask their supplier. Many suppliers list the micron count somewhere in the description of their product. 

75% 19 micron superwash merino wool and
25% nylon - soft AND strong due to the added nylon. 

Asking questions about the yarn base(s) offered by the shop and a give and take in communication between you and the shop owner is key to a positive shopping experience. No matter how much is revealed in a photograph or a written description - a positive exchange of information offers the best experience.

Remember: the LOWER the micron number, the softer the merino wool yarn. The LOWER the micron number, the less likely those allergic to wool will have a skin reaction. Any merino wool yarn less than 30 microns is considered next to the skin soft, although less than 24-25 microns seems to be preferred. 

If you have any questions, or want to add something, please comment below or email me at kelliinthemiddle@gmail.com.

Happy Creating!

Kelli

Additional Resources:

Series on Wool; What is Merino Wool, Charlie Bradley Ross, 2015. https://www.the-sustainable-fashion-collective.com/2015/01/20/what-is-merino-wool/

The Why of Ply , Modern Daily Knitting. Jillian Moreno, 4/13/18.

Using Micron Count to Find the Softest Yarn. Dreaming Robots. Maurice, 3/13/21.